The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food from around the World

The Hakka Cookbook: Chinese Soul Food from around the World

Linda Lau Anusasananan

Language: English

Pages: 312

ISBN: 0520273281

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

Veteran food writer Linda Lau Anusasananan opens the world of Hakka cooking to Western audiences in this fascinating chronicle that traces the rustic cuisine to its roots in a history of multiple migrations. Beginning in her grandmother’s kitchen in California, Anusasananan travels to her family’s home in China, and from there fans out to embrace Hakka cooking across the globe—including Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Canada, Peru, and beyond. More than thirty home cooks and chefs share their experiences of the Hakka diaspora as they contribute over 140 recipes for everyday Chinese comfort food as well as more elaborate festive specialties.

This book likens Hakka cooking to a nomadic type of “soul food,” or a hearty cooking tradition that responds to a shared history of hardship and oppression. Earthy, honest, and robust, it reflects the diversity of the estimated 75 million Hakka living in China and greater Asia, and in scattered communities around the world—yet still retains a core flavor and technique. Anusasananan’s deep personal connection to the tradition, together with her extensive experience testing and developing recipes, make this book both an intimate journey of discovery and an exciting introduction to a vibrant cuisine.


















whole, cut between the joints to separate. Trim off the excess fat. Add the oxtails to the boiling water. Return to a boil, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the oxtails are just tender when pierced, 1½ to 2 hours. 3 Meanwhile, peel the radish and carrots. Cut both veg- etables into 1-inch chunks. Add the radish and carrots to the tender oxtails and return to a boil. Reduce the heat. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the oxtails and radish are very tender when

for the stir-fry: In a 3- to 4-quart pan over high 2 teaspoons soy sauce 2 teaspoons ground bean sauce or hoisin sauce 1 teaspoon cornstarch ½ teaspoon sugar (omit if using hoisin sauce) Stir-Fry 8 ounces lotus root (a 4- to 5-inch section) or Asian white radish, such as daikon 8 ounces boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of fat 2 teaspoons soy sauce 5 green onions, including green tops 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic 5 to 8 thin slices fresh chile (preferably red), such as

assemble: Up to 8 hours ahead, in a wide 3½- to 6-quart metal basin, metal bowl, pan, clay pot, or 12- to 14-inch well-seasoned steel, nonstick, or stainless steel wok, starting at the bottom, layer in the following  ch i na    85 Anusasananan_text.indd 85 5/16/12 9:27 AM order: the radish, pork, cabbage, chicken with juices, and mushrooms with juices; evenly drizzle each layer with ⅓ cup sauce from the pork. Pour any remaining sauce evenly over the top. If not cooking within 1 hour, cover

household. Soon we sit down to a lunch of traditional home-cooked wine chicken and mashed eggplant, supplemented by purchased favorite dishes that their mother used to cook for festivals, such as abacus taro and stuffed tofu and vegetables. Noodles and mushrooms Anusasananan_text.indd 105 5/16/12 9:27 AM Singapore Stuffed Vegetable and Tofu Soup In Singapore’s street markets, customers can choose from a wide selection of tofu and vegetables filled with fish paste and poached in a light

her son’s family. p e r u, hawa i i , a n d tah i t i Anusasananan_text.indd 151   151 5/16/12 9:28 AM TAngY-sweeT RAw FisH sALAd In Tahiti, the Chinese encountered poisson cru, raw fish marinated in coconut milk and lime juice. The Hakka created their own raw fish preparation, a mouthwatering salad bursting with crisp texture and vibrant tastes. Margaret Lai arranges slices of raw fish on a platform of crunchy slivers of fresh and pickled vegetables. Zesty fresh ginger and tart lemon

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