The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat

The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat

Language: English

Pages: 192

ISBN: 0316254088

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

The definitive book on schmaltz--a staple in Jewish cuisine and a "thread in a great tapestry," by one of America's most respected culinary writers.
For culinary expert Michael Ruhlman, the ultimate goal in cooking is flavor, and for certain dishes nothing introduces it half as well as schmaltz. A staple ingredient in traditional Jewish cuisine, schmaltz (or rendered chicken fat), is at risk of disappearing from use due to modern dietary trends and misperceptions about this versatile and flavor-packed ingredient.

THE BOOK OF SCHMALTZ acts as a primer on schmaltz, taking a fresh look at traditional dishes like kugel, kishke, and kreplach, and also venturing into contemporary recipes that take advantage of the versatility of this marvelous fat. Potatoes cooked with schmaltz take on a crispness and satisfying flavor that vegetable oil can't produce. Meats and starches have a depth and complexity that set them apart from the same dishes prepared with olive oil or butter.

What's more, schmaltz provides a unique link to the past that ought to be preserved. "Schmaltz is like a thread that runs through a great tapestry," says Ruhlman's neighbor Lois, whose cooking inspired his own journey into the world of schmaltz. "It's a secret handshake among Jews who love to cook and eat."













from cooking the vegetables in schmaltz. The vegetables and remaining ingredients are then puréed in a food processor. Lois wraps hers in a parchment cylinder (Schwartz and Nathan use foil) and roasts it. It can then be sliced and served or, better, sliced and sautéed in schmaltz (or vegetable oil) to crisp it up. Given all my experience with my books Charcuterie and Salumi, though, I see no reason not to go old-school and stuff it into beef middles (available by mail or from a

Goy to take it out of the oven (and make fresh gremolata, which is a superb finishing garnish for most braises). If you are simply making this as a great winter meal, there are a number of different ways to cook and finish this dish, which I’ll outline below. Traditional Recipes 83 Cholent CHOLENT: One 4-pound/1.8-kilogram breast of veal 6 to 8 meaty beef short ribs (boneless short ribs, beef cheeks, or flanken can be substituted as desired; see headnote for quantities)

strained, defatted cooking liquid. Purée the beans in the cooking liquid using a handheld blender (or do it in batches in a standing blender). The result will be a thick, delicious, smooth sauce. Add the beef and po- tatoes and bring to a simmer, then serve with the gremolata. Serves 6 with leftovers. Traditional Recipes 87 1.Cholent mise en place, clockwise from left: roasted veal bones, seared beef, potatoes, beans, aromatic vegetables, salt, tomato paste, black pepper, bay

grams pure vanilla extract 1½ teaspoons/3 grams cinnamon 1 teaspoon/5 grams kosher salt 1½ cups/150 grams all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon/4 grams baking powder 2 cups/200 grams old-fashioned oats (not quick-cooking) 2⁄3 cup/85 grams dried cherries or other interior garnish (see page 152 for suggestions) Contemporary Recipes 153 Oatmeal Cookies with Dried Cherries Preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C. Cut the schmaltz into chunks and put it, along with both sugars, into the bowl

Brioche, Savory, 144–47 kosher adaptation, 6 cabbage, kreplach on, 59, 63–66 caramelized onions, in Scones with Roasted Red Pepper and Parmigiano-Reggiano (variation), 148–51 Cherries, Dried, Oatmeal Cookies with, 152–54 Chicken Confit, 127–31 in Chicken Rillettes, 132–35 chicken livers Pâté de Foie Gras en Terrine with Croutons, I07–I0 Traditional Chopped Liver, 28–31 Chicken Rillettes, 132–35 Chicken Sausage, 140–43 chicken skin, to remove from chicken, 74–75,

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