Chinese Dress: From the Qing Dynasty to the Present

Chinese Dress: From the Qing Dynasty to the Present

Language: English

Pages: 240

ISBN: 0804836639

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

Featuring over 450 archival photographs and line drawings, Chinese Dress: From the Qing Dynasty to the Present traces the evolution of Chinese clothing from court and formal costumes to the fashions of modern China. A comprehensive and sumptuously illustrated book, Chinese Dress is the essential reference for costume historians, fashion designers and collectors, as well as lovers of beautiful clothes everywhere. Chapters include:

  • Dress of the Qing Manchu Rulers 1644-1911
  • Dress of the Manchu Consorts 1644-1911
  • Attire of Mandarins and Merchants
  • Attire of Chinese Women
  • Republican Dress 1912-1949
  • Clothing of the Lower Classes
  • Clothing for Children
  • Dress in New China 1950-2006

From Imperial robes to foot binding to the cheongsam, Chinese Dress spotlights traditional Chinese dress against a background of historical, cultural and social change, opening a fascinating window for anyone seeking to deepen their understanding of China, Chinese culture and Chinese fashion history.















helmets and holding rattan shields, the character for ting or “patrol” on their tunics, late 19th c. Fig. 46 Manchu bannermen at a parade ground in the northern part of the walled city in Guangzhou, mid-19th c. Fig. 47 A “Tiger of War” by William Alexander, the artist officially attached to the 1792 embassy led by Lord Macartney to the Qianlong Emperor, 1797. Fig. 48 Part of the bodyguard for the governor of Shanxi province, late 19th c. Fig. 49 First semiformal style five-clawed

afforded them, and those with more wealth would have used their money or influence to gain a higher rank. At the end of the dynasty, even the lowest of officials could have openly worn an eight- or even nine-dragon robe if the occasion warranted it. Off-duty mandarins wore official informal clothing for events not connected with major ceremonies or government matters. Indeed, it was considered bad form to wear formal robes at home, when visiting friends, or on other private occasions. This

has a paper of some importance, he carefully unties the strap which confines his trousers to his ankle, inserts the paper, and goes on his way. If he wears outside drawers, he simply tucks in the paper without untying anything. In either case, if the band loosens without his knowledge, the paper is lost – a constant occurrence. Other depositories of such articles are the folds of the long sleeves when turned back, the crown of a turned-up hat, or the space between the cap and the head. Many

second style was the cheongsam, which soon became the fashionable choice of most women. The cheongsam fell straight from the shoulders to the hem in an A line, stopping just below the knees, corresponding to the shorter dresses worn in the West at the time. The narrow stand-up collar opened on the right to form a diagonal slit to the underarm, which continued to the hip, and was fastened with press-studs, or more usually with loops and ball buttons. The sleeves were shortened to elbow length and

Army, formed in 1927 of young peasants and workers from all over China, who became non-salaried commanders and fighters rather than officers and soldiers, was now renamed the People’s Liberation Army (PLA). Relations between civilians and the PLA were supportive and mutually beneficial, since the population knew they needed a sympathetic army to protect their interests after recovering from threats from the Japanese and the Guomindang. The PLA was an army of volunteers, so conscription was not a

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